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FULL  POWER! 

Purchase as a package and save $$
Best of all, everything needed to install the “NEW SYSTEM” comes all in one
package, organized and ready to install.
 

This system combines several parts kits and items from M.A.D.’s ELECTRICAL parts catalog to provide the best possible performance.  Expect to have strong ignition, bright headlights, powerful electric radiator fans, and in general a very strong system.

“12volt” automotive electrical system parts are designed for best performance and longest life when operating at about 14volts.  (Because 14.2 volts is required to fully charge a battery—And so the voltage regulator for the alternator is pre-set to maintain system voltage at about 14.2volts.)

In a perfect world, we would have the full 14.2 volts throughout our electrical system.  However, voltage drop in the wiring results with less than the full amount of voltage being delivered to all the parts.

In the factory wiring systems used with popular cars and trucks from the Muscle Car period, voltage drop is severe with lights and other accessories switched ON.  It’s why the headlights were never bright on these cars and trucks, and dash lights were also dim.  When voltage at the dash area is reduced, ignition system performance will deteriorate.

Expect that when voltage is reduced by about 10%, performance will be reduced by about 30%.  In other words…  A little voltage drop caused by weak wiring will result with a major performance loss! 

 

      The NEW SYSTEM is discussed in great detail at our ELECTRICAL TECH section, see the page titled “CHEVY MAIN ELECTRICAL POWER SYSTEM…”  But the NEW SYSTEM is also a very good layout for nearly all applications, all makes, and all models (GM, FORD, MOPAR, and Imports too).

     The NEW SYSTEM works equally well with the battery up-front, or with the battery re-located to the rear.  (With the battery at the rear, we remove the 10 gauge, Red, Tuff-Wire, and also the 14 gauge Fusible Link Wire kit—And then add either the part #TM-1 or #TM-2 kit at a discounted price.) 

     The NEW SYSTEM provides a very effective method of delivering power output from the alternator to all parts of the electrical system.  (With a normally functioning system, the alternator is the source of power used to operate the electrical system—not the battery.)  The NEW SYSTEM is also clean and friendly to work with, and it can handle powerful alternators and support many accessories.
     Placing the terminal block at the driver’s side firewall area will deliver power at full voltage level to the dash main power hook-up, which passes through the firewall bulkhead connector.  In the factory layout, this wire will power-up the entire system.  (The wire was rather lengthy and only 12gauge wire size, in many factory systems.)
     In the factory Chevy system from ’63-’66, this Red 12gauge dash power-up originated at a crimped and then soldered splice, in the wire harness, approximately between the front wheel and the radiator core support.  In the factory Chevy system from ’67 – ’71, the Red 12 gauge dash power-up wire originated at the Horn Relay, on the driver’s side of the radiator core support.
     The length of 12gauge wire will be much shorter in this NEW SYSTEM layout, as it will be detoured to the new Terminal block at the firewall.  Also, installing relays up front to support the Head Lights will remove a large current load from the dash wire harness.  The shorter dash power-up wire and reduced current flow will greatly reduce voltage drop, with this NEW SYSTEM.
     Expect much brighter headlights, better voltage at the dash area, and better performance in general with the NEW SYSTEM installed.
 

RECOMMENDED PARTS LIST  (from the M.A.D. ELECTRICAL catalog) 

  • Part #TB -1  ($7.95) (Tech book, ELECTRICAL WIRING “tech is made simple”  It teaches soldering techniques and special wire splicing methods.  The book covers many topics that are important to reliability of this system.  It also covers Fusible Link wires, basics and fundamentals of electricity, and more.  Many photos are provided, and the topics are covered without a lot of heavy reading.
  • Part #ALT-1  ($27.95) Alternator wiring kit for the “THREE-WIRE” model 10SI and 12SI, DELCO alternators.  These alternators are the most practical for upgrading cars from the Muscle Car period.  The 12SI model is a second-generation, GM DELCO, with a built-in voltage regulator.  It has increased cooling capacity and out-put rating.  The 12SI is available with 94amp out-put windings.  (See more about 10SI and 12SI alternators in the ELECTRICAL TECH section.)

Our alternator wiring kit has instructions and parts to properly wire the “VOLTAGE-SENSING” terminal from the alternator to the firewall-mounted Terminal Block.  The regulator in the alternator will take voltage reading from the Terminal Block, and then make adjustments to alternator output as required.  The kit provides this wiring method to maintain the terminal block at 14.2volts (with normal alternator function).

The Alternator wiring kit will also maintain function of an original ALT or GEN warning light at the dash.  A voltmeter can also be added, but the warning light is a nice feature to maintain.  The warning light feature can warn of a belt drive problem at the engine.  Watch the Water Temp gauge if the warning light comes on—it’s possible that the water pump may not be turning. 

  • Part # RLY-1  ($24.00 each, 2 QTY = $48.00)  Relay kits for the Headlight up-grade.  Two relay kits are required, one for the High Beams and one for the Low Beams.  Two kits are needed with “TWO Headlight” systems and also use two kits with “FOUR Headlight systems.”

(Add additional relay kits as needed for other items.)   We suggest one for electric fuel pump, one for air conditioning, and two for electric radiator fans.  The modern, well-equipped, custom car will require a few relays.  See more on RELAYS in our ELECTRICAL CATALOG.) 

  • Part # CN-1  ($4.99 each 2 QTY = $9.98)  It’s our Insulated Terminal Block.  It will serve as the main power distribution “buss-bar” under the hood.  We recommend installing the terminal block, which will serve as the main power distribution hub, at the driver’s side firewall area. 

A second one of these handy terminal blocks may be added at the driver’s side of the radiator core support.  This second terminal block will provide convenient connection of the “main load wire” for headlight and radiator fan relays.  And then install our 8gauge Red Tuff-Wire connecting the terminal block at the firewall to the terminal block at the core support.  Relays for the headlights and fans can also be mounted at the driver’s side of the radiator core support.  (With Chevy from the Muscle car period the Terminal Block and relays can be mounted at the area where the old voltage regulator was.)

With ’63 – ‘71 Chevy… The horn relay buss-bar may also be used for power distribution to the Relays (Although the #CN-1 Terminal block provides more secure and reliable connections.)  At the base of the horn relay is a metal bar with two machine screws.  This metal bar is insulated from the body of the horn relay, and this metal bar served as a power distribution buss-bar in the original Chevy system.

As an addition to this NEW SYSTEM package, two more #CN-1 Terminal blocks may be added under the dash, at the car’s interior.  Connect one of these terminal blocks mounted under the dash to the under-hood terminal block (via 8gauge or 10gauge, Red Tuff-Wire).  And connect the other of these terminal blocks mounted under the dash to ignition-switched ON/OFF 12volt power source.  These two terminal blocks under the dash will be very convenient for wiring accessories.  Modern radios will require ignition switched ON/OFF 12volt power Plus “full-time, always-hot, 12 volt power source” for the clock and pre-set station memory.  Adding gauges will require an ignition switched ON/OFF 12volt source.  Adding air conditioning will require a relay.  The relay will connect to an ignition switched ON/OFF controlled source.  Plus the relay will connect to a “main full-time, always-hot, 12 volt power source.”  (The switch-controlled relay for the air conditioning will deliver power from the full-time hot terminal block to the air conditioning system.)  A relay wired with this method is also the best for digital dash gauges.  And so the terminal blocks under the dash are great little organizers where accessories may be connected. 

·        Part # 10-TWR, 10 gauge Tuff-Wire, Red  (10ft. at $0.65  per foot = $6.50) 

With the battery up front, this 10gauge will be used for the “battery charging wire.”  Connect the 10 gauge from the Terminal block at the firewall to the battery POSITIVE stud at the side of M.A.D.’s START’M UP kit solenoid.  The entire ten feet may not be required, but we recommend using at least seven feet for this “battery charging wire.”  This long-length of “battery charging wire” can slow the charging rate, which is most gentle to batteries and alternators.

The long wire length is especially important when using “sealed” batteries—as we will never have opportunity to add water that will be lost with fast-rate battery recharging.  It’s best explained at our web site www.madelectrical.com, in the Electrical Tech section, the feature titled “Chevy Main Electrical Power system...” 

The 10gauge is not used with our Trunk Mounted battery system—Then we use the 8gauge, Red Tuff-Wire, which is supplied in our Part #TM-1 & TM-2 kits.  (See the M.A.D. catalog)

·        Part # FL-14 ($2.95 each, only one required)  It serves as “short circuit protection.  This fusible link would automatically disconnect the entire electrical system from the battery in the event of short-to-ground at any part of the main system or alternator.  (See more on Fusible Link Wires in our ELECTRICAL CATALOG.)

·        Part # ST-1 ($29.95 each, only one required)  It’s a very good up-grade.  See more about the advantages of this remote starter solenoid up-grade in our ELECTRICAL CATALOG.  (A 16gauge Fusible link wire kit is included in the START’M UP kit—but install it at the terminal block as shown in the NEW SYSTEM diagram.)

·        2 QTY of our #U810R, 8gauge x #10 stud size ring terminals, at $0.50 each.  We will sell the 8gauge ring terminals individually, rather than our catalog listed 10 pkg. Qty.  (8gauge terminals are larger than industry standard and therefore more costly.)  These terminals can be used with our 8gauge, Red, Tuff-Wire.  Connect 8gauge from the Terminal Block at the firewall to either the second Terminal Block or the original Horn Relay at the core support.

·        Part # 8-TWR   (8 feet length, 8gauge Tuff-Wire, Red, $1.39 per foot at 8ft. length = $11.12 cost)

·         Part # 10-NTPMB75 ($2.69) These “Push-Mount” nylon ties can be used to re-fasten wire harness into the original holes in the sheet metal.

·        Part # 10-NTSMB75 ($1.99) These “Screw-Mount” nylon ties can be used to fasten wire harness at the sheet metal—Where new wiring is routed. 

TOTAL COST of all parts listed above, when purchased individually = $150.08 or
Purchase all parts listed above as an up-grade package for only $130.00 (Plus shipping)

It’s the best $130.00 ever spent on these cars!

Order part # NEWSYSTEM  ($130.00 plus 7 lbs. Shipping weight) 

          And if the battery will be located at the rear, in place of the Red 10gauge Tuff-Wire and 14gauge Fusible Link wire kit we will add the Part # TM-2 kit for a total NEW SYSTEM package cost of $162.80 (purchased individually, the items would add up to $187.13)

Order part # NEW SYSTEM&TM-2  ($162.80 plus 9 lbs. Shipping weight) 

          Or, with the part # TM-1, the total cost of the NEW SYSTEM package is $167.15 (purchased individually the parts would add up to $192.13)

Order part # NEWSYSTEM&TM-1  ($167.15 plus 10lbs. Shipping weight) 

 

    

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