Catalog Ordering & Shipping Electrical Tech Work Shop Tips About M.A.D.


And now, a test of performance
after adding RELAYS for the Head Lights 

Relays can be used as "remote control switches."  It takes only a tiny amount of current to turn the relay ON.  But when switched ON, the relay delivers power directly to the accessory.  ("high gain" operation)

We can install headlight relays next to the main power distribution buss-bar at the horn relay (where the old voltage regulator was).

The factory "front lighting system" wire harness is routed just above that area, in route to the headlights.  We can cut and detour the factory High Beam wire and Low Beam wire to the relays, and now the factory system will only have to switch the relays ON, instead of directly powering-up those big headlights.

The headlights are up front, and the alternator is the source of electrical power; and the alternator is mounted at the front of the engine.  It’s logical and sensible to mount RELAYS up front.  Use existing wiring to switch the RELAYS ON, and then the relays will send full power to the lights.  (And use of the relays takes headlight current load away from the dash wire harness, and so the ignition and entire electrical system will benefit too.) 

This test was done after the relay up-grade, with High Beams ON, engine at idle RPM.  14.0 volts measured at the horn relay buss-bar.  13.96 volts measured at the back of the headlight.  (Before the relays, we had only 11.5 volts at the headlight, with 14.1 at the Horn Relay, at highway cruise RPM.) 

This test was done after the relay up-grade, with High Beams ON, engine at highway cruise RPM.  (And it's a good thing our testing is finished, because the engine is warming up with so much "running in place.")

With the current load to support the headlights removed from the dash wiring and switches, we took away the voltage drop in the wiring to the dash area.

Now the dash mounted voltmeter will no longer "lie" to us when we switch the headlights ON.  The ignition will not become weak.  The dash lights will be brighter.  And other accessories will be more powerful too.

The first time the car was driven at night, the improvement in the headlights was remarkable!  Now the lights are very bright.

Everyone who has used our relay kits for the headlight system agrees that this is absolutely the best-for-the-money electrical up-grade.  It adds reliability too, by removing current load from weak factory connections and switches.  Considering the years of hassle free service, enjoyment, and safety, this is without a doubt the most sensible up-grade possible.  It beats out expensive and often over-promoted luxuries like big sound systems, racing ignition systems, "high-end batteries," chrome alternators, and gadgets.

Overall, the headlight relay up-grade makes these old cars and trucks more useful and enjoyable to drive. 

Two of our part # RLY-1 Relay Kits are required for the headlight system up-grade–ONE for LOW BEAMS, and ONE for HIGH BEAMS.  (Even with "two headlight system" cars.)

And for people who would like to learn more about electricity, voltage drop, assembly craftsmanship, Fusible Link wires, and more, we offer the "tech is made simple" book.  The book is easy reading, and it's filled with great photos of craftsmanship and wiring techniques.  Fundamentals of electricity are explained through cartoon-like illustrations. 


(The switch shown in the photo was removed from a FORD car.  We ground off the rivet heads, punched out the rivets, and pried the cover from the switch, for a look inside.)

Call-out labels with arrows point to various parts of the two circuit breakers in a typical headlight switch, shown in the photo above.

A = Battery live "buss-bar," which also serves as mounting for the stationary contact points of the circuit breaker.

B & C = Circuit breaker contact points.

D & E = Resistance calibration notches in the movable arm part of the circuit breaker.

F & G = Movable arm, metal strip, part of the circuit breaker.  



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