After the START'M UP kit has been installed, the only cable routed to the starter is the large cable, and it will be "electrically dead," except for during engine cranking. (No more "live" positive battery cable routed down to the starter, where it might become shorted.)
No longer will those small wires be routed to the starter–where they are often very difficult to work with. No more small starter wires burned by the exhaust system on V-8 and V-6 applications. (The small wires will be re-routed to the new, remote, solenoid, supplied in the kit.)
Connection of a mechanic's remote starter button (with alligator clips and wires) will be easy. It's a very useful feature for engine service work, which requires "bumping" the starter. Examples of such use is adjusting valves, finding timing marks, testing compression, and installing distributors.
The POSITIVE battery cable will be connected to a large stud at one side of the new solenoid, which provides a great place for connecting accessories directly to battery positive power. It's much neater and more reliable to connect wires here than directly to the battery posts, where they are subject to corrosion and look messy. Wires that may be connected here might be; the alternator to battery "charging wire," the dash area "main power-up wire," and wires to relays. (Relays for electric radiator fans, headlights, fuel pumps, and other accessories.)
GM HOT START PROBLEMS
There are two independent categories of hot start problems with the GM DELCO built starting system.
(1) Nothing happens when the key is turned to "START"–although the headlights will burn brightly, and the rest of the electrical system is fine. The problem most often occurs in hot weather, and with the engine warmed up, after about a ten-minute stop. (Heat increases resistance at wiring and electrical parts.)
This is the type of problem, which will be cured with installation of the START'M UP kit. The problem occurs because the large solenoid on the GM starter draws 40 to 50 amps at the moment the key is turned to "START." And that large amount of current must flow through a very lengthy circuit, from the battery to the dash area. Through dash wiring and switches, back out through the under-hood wiring, finally to the starter.
The START'M UP kit will reduce current flow through the lengthy circuit to only 2 amps–then the system will work fine. (2) SLOW CRANKING, a gr-r-runt, gr-r-runt. This kit won't fix it! You'll need to work with ignition timing, battery cables, the starter, and the rest of the system.