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part # HEI-1 $18.95

  

   
  • Factory GM connectors are supplied for the “BAT” and “TACH” terminals.  The connector bodies are keyed so that they only fit the correct terminals.  And the retaining latch secures the connection. 
      

  • M.A.D.’s Tuff-Wire for wiring the BAT terminal to full power ignition switched source.
     

  • A great instruction manual insures that the system will be properly wired–which is very important to performance when running the HEI system.

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Our HEI distributor wiring kit makes it easy to get the wiring correct, and proper wiring is critical to maximum spark output from the HEI system.

The HEI (High Energy Ignition) system is at its best when operating with 14volts input.  The older cars and trucks often had a ballast resistor wire built into the wire harness, and the wire from the old ignition coil should never be transferred to the HEI distributor.  The ignition coil in the HEI system will not produce maximum energy with a resistor or with weak wiring in the circuit.

Most ignition switches will have the “ignition” terminal of the ignition switch active (live) with the ignition switched “ON” and also when switched to “START,” but not all switches provide this function.  The HEI must be powered up during cranking, as well as when the ignition is switched “ON” (or there will be no spark during cranking).

The instruction manual shows the correct wiring and the best method for wire hook-up to the ignition switch wire.  A troubleshooting guide to the HEI distributor is also included in the manual.

NOTE:  When running with mostly stock wire harness and HEI, it’s a good idea to install relays for the headlights.  With original wire harness, the headlights draw power from the dash wire harness, resulting in lower voltage at the dash area when the lights are switched ON.  Our part # RLY-1, RELAY kits make the headlight up grade simple, and it does stop the headlights from robbing power from the HEI.  Of course, the headlights will be much brighter too.

   


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